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Last edited by rangerv; at Wow, I must be the cold wimp on this forum!!! I ended up with a nice case of hypothermia about 10 years ago while out hunting on one of those 35 degrees and raining type of days. It threw me for quite a loop. It seemed to sensitize me to the cold also. Ever since then I can't keep my hands or feet warm enough.
Tried alot of boot and sock combos. Bought a bunch of new inner and outer clothes after that too. I now use mg thinsulate boots with a wicking sock and a heavy thermal synthetic sock over that.
As long as I still hunt s-l-o-w my feet don't sweat up and I can sit in relative comfort. If the temp is under 32 and I am sitting, my feet only remain warm for an hour or two. After that I have to still hunt for a little bit to warm them back up. Like wolfsong, I use silk liners as my first layer for my hands too.
They are great as long as they stay bone dry. There are some simple therapies that you can use to train your body to keep hands and feet warm in extreme cold. I believe that the army is possibly using this in Alaska? Basically, you keep hands and feet in something warm, while exposing the rest of the body to cold briefly. Not sure you'd want to turn it completely off I recall studying hypothermia and its symptoms in diving training.
It can happen any time the body is exposed to temperatures below body temperature if you are in conditions that cause you to lose heat to that lower temperature faster than you can generate it. Ever notice how kids, with their relatively high surface area-to-volume ratio, will come out of the local swimming hole shivering, even in summer?
As far as training goes, that's for real. Even with a breeze blowing, it still made my hands and fingers heat until my palms were perspiring. I don't expect the opportunity to watch people exercise attracts much game, though. The main thing is to try to control heat loss. Warm extremities are comfortable and avoid frostbite, but hypothermia is more about core temperature.
You lose heat where blood flow is great near your surface; the scalp and armpits, for example. That's why divers switch from wet suits to dry suits in really cold water. Keep your head dry so your hair acts as an insulating fiber. If you don't have head hair, get a thin wool cap to wear under an oversize hat. Keep thick insulation under your armpits a vest under your coat, for example , then don't keep your arms propped up to let air in under them. If you have to sit a long time, a rain poncho you can withdraw your arms into will create insulating air pockets around your coat as well as keeping you dry.
Getting on your gun fast without much visible movement becomes a little more problematic, though. Well, since both my rubber boots and my lace up hunting boots have grams I guess I have to vote that way.
I grew up in Oregon and learned that staying dry made the biggest difference. Poypro is nice but I find I like Capilene and Ultimax even better. For me it seems not to hold stinky feet smell as much as Polypro does and I tend to always have warm feet, that can be an issue after three days in a tent. Warm dry feet means my wife can snuggle up to me and put her cold feet on mine and warm them up. I like wool socks, but prefer good moisture wicking socks. A good medium weight pair does the job unless it is and I'm sitting still for a long time.
If it's that cold, I'm wearing pac boots. Heck, I have enough friends. I got a pair of La Crosse boots with gram insulation and they work out fine for about anything I do. They're a little warm for fall days when I'll be out in terrain that requires boots and not just a pair of junky shoes, but I love them for pheasant hunting and deer hunting where it can get cold and I'll have to go through deep snow.
My feet are a size 14 so the boots are massive and they go high on my calves, so I have no problem going through thick stuff. They're waterproof, and I can thank them being so warm because I can remember when I was pheasant hunting a couple years ago and my father sent me to go through a slough and one of my feet went through the ice and over the top of the boot.
The exterior was frozen but my foot was still warm. If it gets really cold I'll wear a good pair of wool socks and my feet will be fine. I suppose I don't know any different but these suit me pretty well. My normal hunting boots have , but I usually hike in and sit. I have experimented with heavy sock but that seemed to have an opposite effect, it made my feet fit tighter in the boots and they got cold quicker. My sin, not in part but the whole, Is nailed to the cross, and I bear it no more, Praise the Lord, praise the Lord, O my soul!
I usually buy the boots a size larger, put in liners either of poly or wool, and use polar fleece and wool combination socks without getting things too tight. I have some of the Mickey Mouse boots, mfgd. I definitely use a wool removable liner in the sole, and wear the double moisture wick polar fleece and wool socks. The military surplus or original Beta Boots are the only way to go in the winter for my money. I have worn them at a recorded f to work outside fixing equipment that should have been left alone!
It's the only boot I wear snow machining in the back country, and have had them fill with water and still keep my feet warm. I have never owned a new pair, but I heard they cost about I even modified my snow shoe bindings and ice cleats to fit these bulbous booties. Dog mushers wear a little different style that is lighter, bigger, and better for running along the dog sled. BB code is On. All times are GMT The time now is Add Thread to del. How much Thinsulate in your boots?
How much Thinsulate for general hunting boots? You may not vote on this poll. Page 1 of 2. Registered Users do not see the above ad. Shawn Crea Super Moderator. More than you wanted to know. Remove Advertisements Sponsored Links. Elk Hunting Capitol of the World! Frank Share Share this post on Digg Del. The views of an old man Originally Posted by faucettb Welcome to the forum. A moisture management lining with waterproof components. Irish Setter exclusive scent control process.
Composite material that significantly reduces the weight of the boot. For a lock-tight, high-performance fit. Flexibility in the forefoot with a stable platform in the heel. Leather upper is handsewn to the sole. A protective covering that is incredibly tough and abrasion resistant. Minimizes pressure on the shin from the top of the boot. Underfoot insulation that serves as a barrier to heat loss.
Non-woven material that is combined with leather or nylon. Our women's specific styles are built around precision-made lasts that address the nuances of a woman's foot shape for better fit and performance. Keeps feet dry and comfortable in all conditions. This low-bulk insulation maintains loft and traps body heat.
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